Tuesday, March 24, 2020
Canned fish is one of the great delights of this shoulder season, as spring begins its ascent — and maybe particularly when so many of us are cooking with the cans in the back of the pantry, or trying to keep stocks of food in the house. I like the larger ones mixed into mayonnaise and the smaller ones dabbed with hot sauce. I like albacore crumbled into roux and heated with elbow macaroni and cheese — tuna wiggle, some people call it, or tuna casserole. I like sardines shingled over pilot crackers or accompanying a sleeve of stoned wheat thins, with an apple and a wedge of cheese. I like canned salmon flaked onto a salad, with a tangy vinaigrette. I like to eat these things outside, in the brisk bright air of early spring as much as in the warmth of summer, at a table on a porch or on a blanket in the sand, and especially now, as I emerge blinking from the Northeastern winter blues, ready for a new season.
Whatever you think of the NYT's politics (I don't like 'em) they do have good recipe ideas. Especially tuna!